How to Celebrate Oktoberfest Without Going to Munich
Written by John V. Curtin
Photographed by Ramon Estevanell
(Opposite photo: Heidelberg)
|
 |
For my money, there’s no
better time to be in New York than fall. Gone is
the oppressively hot and humid weather, and though
everyone has returned to the city from their respective
summer hiatuses, it's yet to be overwhelmed by the
frenzy of the holiday months and the throngs
of tourists and plethora of parades that inevitably
follow. And certainly nothing is better on
a crisp fall afternoon than a giant litre of delicious
German beer. Below are my picks for the best places
in New York to celebrate Oktoberfest like a
true Deutschlander.
Best German Biergarten
If You’re a Lower East Side Hipster:
Zum Schneider
107 Ave. C (@ 7th St.)
Designed to look like you’re
standing inside a Bavarian forest, Zum Schneider
has a wonderfully airy atmosphere with outdoor seating
and huge windows that open up onto the street in
good weather. Live DJs, a genuinely beautiful (like
“they could probably navigate their way past
just about any velvet rope in the city” beautiful)
German staff, and a menu that might be just a bit
too healthy and flirts with not-being-German-enough
complete the mood. Zum Schneider is most appreciated
on a cool, fall weekend afternoon, several hours
before the throngs of trendoid nightcrawlers
descend upon it like beer-starved locusts. PS –
with a no credit card policy, make sure you’ve
got plenty of cash on hand.
|
|
Zum
Schneider |
Zum
Schneider |
Best German Biergarten
You Should Never Bring Your Girlfriend To: Heidelberg
1648 2nd Ave. (btwn 85 & 86 St.)
For whatever reason, nearly every
time I go to Heidelberg with my girlfriend we get
in a fight. It’s kind of weird actually. Maybe
it’s the dark, musty atmosphere, the continuous
stream of oompah music, or the older clientele with
questionable political beliefs. Or maybe its just
that after three enormous steins of Bitburger, one
can’t help but feel a bit bellicose. That
said, Heidelberg is one of New York’s best
German restaurants, and is without question it’s
most authentic. So if you’re in the mood for
some tried and true Teutonic culture, head on over
to the Upper East Side – just bring enough
cash so you and your girlfriend can take separate
cabs home.
Best German Biergarten If You
Have to Apologize to Your Girlfriend:
Loreley
7 Rivington St. (btwn Bowery & Chrystie St.)
Think Sex & the City comes
to Germany. A Cologne-style biergarten (which I’m
told is often thought of as a more ‘sophisticated/urbane’
area of Germany), Loreley (pronounced LORE’-ih-LIE’)
is noticeably more subdued than its raucous colleagues.
It’s the subtle touches where this biergarten
scores points: soft flood-lights illuminate the
rear garden, and the perfectly manicured foliage
lining the perimeter helps keep the mood romantic.
An annual suckling pig roast will keep more carnivorous-minded
patrons happy. And while Loreley hosts an extensive
selection of tasty German beers, a full bar is also
available. I’m told they even make a fantastic
margarita.
Best German Biergarten
If You’re Actually German:
Lederhosen
39 Grove St. (btwn Bedford & Bleecker St.)
Lederhosen may be
New York’s best-kept secret. Though the name
might seem slightly less-than-original, on closer
inspection, this relative newcomer - on a quiet,
hard-to-find street in the West Village - really
does it right. A small bar greets patrons up front,
but the real prize is out back, where a huge mural
of the snowcapped Alps overlooks a mix of celebratory
groups, couples, and even a few families enjoying
some of the city’s best (and most affordable)
German fare. Try the Lederhosen Haus Special, where
for $50 you can tap your own personal 5-litre mini-barrel
of either Bitburger or Spaten, and enjoy an assortment
of tasty brats; it’s recommended for two or
more people (though after polishing off a 5-litre
barrel, you might need a few more orders of bratwurst).
Lederhosen’s draught beers are noticeably
less expensive than their competitors’, the
bar welcomes credit cards, and while at any given
hour the space is lively it’s never so crowded
you can’t move. Bottom line: Lederhosen is
about as good as it gets this side of the Rhine.
Pull up one of the heavy wooden benches, hunker
down with a perfectly poured litre of Radeberger
Pils, and forget about your problems. Heaven? Maybe
not, but it’s pretty close - and quickly becoming
this writer’s favorite biergarten in the city.
(Plus, they’ve got a great jukebox to boot.)
Hallo Berlin
Best German Biergarten
If You Can’t Get Into Any of the Nightclubs
on 27th Street or You’re an Out of Work Broadway
Actor: Hallo Berlin
626 10th Ave. (btwn 44th & 45th St.)
Whatever ails you, Hallo Berlin
has the remedy (or at least the ability to numb
your senses enough to make you temporarily forget
your problems). A standard selection of classic
German beers and an extensive collection of more
exotic, imported bottled beers more than suffice.
The big, basic beer hall hides a pleasant (save
for the dull roar of the air-conditioning system)
back garden suitable to kicking up your feet and
nursing your litre. In fact, if you get there early
enough, it’s just a quick walk to watch the
sun set over the Hudson. But frankly, with beer
this good, I doubt anyone will be straying
too far.
. |
