Terry
Maloney's 2006 Olympus Fashion Week Diary
February 2006
Written and Photographed
by
Terry Maloney
|
|
| |
Jennifer
Lopez and Marc Anthony at Industria |
February
3rd, Friday, Day One: At last the five-month
wait was over. Olympus Fashion Week Fall 2006 was
finally here! Armed with my hard-earned press pass
featuring a huge black letter "I" (Important?
Insignificant?) I ventured out into a rainstorm
and headed, not for the famous tents in Bryant Park,
but to the historic Altman Building on West 18th
Street, utilized by many designers represented by
the amazing Kelly Cutrone and her People's Revolution
PR team for their seasonal runway shows.

Finlandia Girl Kelli Hands
Out Samples
First up on the Altman hardwood
was the "Lumiere" Autumn/Fall 2006 collection
by A la Disposition. Following the twenty-two design
show, it was downstairs (backstage) for some Finlandia
Vodka and an impressive buffet by caterer Marc Cooperman.
While lunching I ran into the Paris-based designer
Afshin Feiz, whom I had first met during last September's
NY Fashion Week. The handsome and affable Afshin
was accompanied by his father, a Patrick Stewart
look alike, and dad's lovely girlfriend, who was
wearing one of Afshin's designs, a beautiful purple
ankle-length dress.
The Iranian-born
Afshin's forty-one design show was amazing and,
following another mini after party, it was finally
off to Bryant Park by very slow taxi (note to self:
use the subway!) for the very dark Dragana Ognjenovic
show in the Atelier tent. The clothes were rather
drab, but the black tote bags with leather clutch
and handle were tres chic!
Designer Afshin Feiz and
Anthony from Kenneth Cole
After being presented with yet
another new bag (a much in-demand Lacoste beach
tote), it was now back to the Altman Building (by
swift subway) for the Kai Kuhne "Myself"
show. The venue was packed with fans of the former
As Four lead designer and he didn't disappoint,
with a highly wearable collection of skirts, blouses
and dresses ranging in style from evening wear to
sporty.
As we left the building heading
for the Kuhne after party at nearby Embassy, the
man himself voiced his approval of my baby blue
French Army UN beret which, for some inexplicable
reason, I had been wearing at the show. Alas, it
was the last I saw of Kai as I did not attempt to
penetrate Embassy's VIP area and was content to
enjoy the open bar with some new friends, departing
at 1 am shortly after the waiters brought out the
silver buckets and rather pricey champagne menu
($500-3000!)
February
4th, Saturday, Day Two: I forgot to bring
my digital camera today, which means I was able
to relax more and really enjoy the clothes (and
models.) At 2pm it was time for the Brazilian superstar
Alexandre Herchcovitch in the Main Tent, a Kelly
Cutrone client. At 3 pm it was time for another
one of "Kelly's boys,” the Turkish-born,
Vienna-based Atil Kutoglu. His beautiful "Turquality"
show took place in the Promenade tent.
A few hours (and a few Delta-provided
mimosas) later I was "promoted" from standing
to the front row (don't ask) at the Anait Bian show
in the Atelier tent. Anait's twenty-nine design
show reflected her "love of color, soft feminine
silhouettes combined with tailoring and architectural
structure, luxurious fabrics and hand cut flowers."
Anait, of French and Armenian heritage, is New York-trained,
having studied design at both FIT and Parsons. She
recently returned to the city and opened a new showroom
on East 65th Street.
Finally, in the Promenade tent,
it was time for the Australian team of Sass and
Bide (Sarah Jane Clark and Heidi Middleton.) Their
"Shining Independent" show featuring twenty-seven
designs was described as "a play on the contrast
between fluidity and fixed elements...a modern interpretation
of Hera meets Emily Bronte."
February
5th, Day Three (Super Bowl Sunday): Unlike
last February, there was no television available
in the lobby cafe area to watch the Big Game, so
I needed to rely on my cell phone for scoring updates.
With no invitations today, I had to rely on my press
pass, aging charms and the pity of young PR interns
to gain entry to any of the Sunday shows. I managed
a standing room ticket to the Twinkle show, featuring
colorful designs by designer Wenlan Chia. After
the show I met three lovely young women, a Turk
and two Greeks. Nazli, the Turkish girl studying
architecture at Columbia, then accompanied me to
the Altman Building for the Rachel Comey show ("an
experiment with new shapes and unexpected pairings
of color and texture.") Amazingly, it was my
first show which also featured male models.
It was then back
to Bryant Park, where I failed to get into the Diana
von Furstenberg show (her first Tent show ever),
a decision prompted by the off-site track lighting
accident last September which seriously injured
several journalists. While scoping out the line
for celebrities, I met Tim Gunn of Parsons and Project
Runway fame. I practically begged him for a ticket
to the upcoming Project Runway show but the very
sweet Mr. Gunn told me: "I can't even get a
ticket for my sister!" He's such a nice guy
that I just had to believe him.
Patricia Field
There was such a mob scene in
the lobby for the DVF show and it was nearly impossible
to spot any celebrities. The only ones I managed
to find were PBS's Charlie Rose, fashion legend
Patricia Field and the formerly condemned Salman
Rushdie, who was holding the coat of a leggy beauty
in red. "I'm just happy to be here," said
Salman.
After being shut out of the Tuleh
show, I retreated to the always popular Lotus open
bar where I drowned my sorrows with several Effen
(vodka, not profanity) Lemonades. The Lotus bar
is a major feature of the Bryant Park lobby, with
cute bar people and invitations to nightly parties
at their main location on W. 14th Street. Unfortunately,
the lobby bar is only half the size it was last
September, as it was forced to re-locate to make
room for a Moet Champagne room which never seemed
to be open to anyone but pouty models doing photo
shoots.
At half-time I was off to the
Splash Bar to watch the rest of the Super Bowl with
Trai la Trash and the boys. (Steelers won: yay!)
February
6th, Monday, Day Four: I am ashamed to say
that I actually blew off a runway show that I was
invited to this morning. It was the 9 am James Coviello
show, which I had absolutely no chance of making
seeing how I got home at the ungodly (for me) hour
of 1 am after a "wild" Super Bowl/Bingo
party at Splash. I'm sorry Jimmy, and please don't
add me to your s-list for next season.
Despite my early RSVP to my invitation
for the 2 pm Reem Acra show, I was presented with
an "open seating" index card which in
"Fashion Week Speak" translates to "standing
room," the way "grande" at Starbucks
means "small." The thirty-four design
Acra show was Acra’s attempt to "redefine
evening dressing...to broaden the concept of what
and how a woman can dress for even the most special
of occasions...it is very important for a woman
to look fresh and modern."
After the Acra Show
it was back to West 18th Street, this time to the
Metropolitan Pavilion for the Gustavo Arango show.
A lovely reception preceded the show where I shared
drinks with the beautiful Saba from Somalia (via
Sweden) and Juliana, a model-like journalist from
Colombia.
The thirty-five look Arango show was described as
"sensuality emerging from a juxtaposition of
textures and influential shapes."
It was then back again to Bryant Park with new friend
Saba for the awesome runway show of the Malaysian
sensation Zang Toi. New York Magazine recently had
this to say about the Toi Boy: "Year in and
year out, fans of Toi know they can count on the
designer for one thing: pure, unadulterated glamour.
That plus great, body-flattering silhouettes and
beautiful tailoring. The designer helps women young
and old to feel like the only woman in the room
with his dramatic, often finely embellished gowns,
dresses and separates, as well as sophisticated
but feminine suits."
February 7th, Tuesday, Day
Five: I just make it to the Altman Building
for the official 12 noon starting time for the Costello
Tagliapietra show. Robert, my favorite security
guard, let my special guest go right in rather than
make her wait on the very long line. (Note to reader:
make friends with the security guards; it helps
when you are older than them.)
Of course, official starting times have nothing
to do with when the runway show actually begins.
It's usually not even the time when guests are allowed
into the building or tent. Typically, shows star
anywhere from 30-45 minutes "late," but
everyone accepts this and no one complains.
My friend Kelly Cutrone was running this show and,
as I had gallantly given up my seat to my special
guest, she beckoned me to the front row (an awesome
feeling), where I was honored to sit next to her
small daughter Eva and nanny. Adorable Eva was all
set to take notes with her pink high-lighter, just
like a real fashion editor (no, not me.)
The twenty-four look show featured "beautifully
tailored dresses, constructed jackets, and coats
in muted tones, all with an attention to detail
both inside and out, with a focus on the draping
of fabric that’s finished with bound edges
and French seams."
Jeffrey Costello started by designing clothing for
actresses and musicians, and then met up with partner,
native New Yorker, and Parsons graduate Robert Tagliapietra,
and together they founded Costello Tagliapietra.
Both were taught the art of tailoring by their grandmothers,
who, coincidentally, had both worked for Norman
Norell in the 1960s.
Celebrities who wear Costello Tagliapietra include:
Angelina Jolie, Padma Lakshmi, Jennifer Lopez, Madonna
and Cameron Diaz. "Only girls with a body to
handle the cling need apply!"
After a quick lunch at KFC (hey, I'm not on an expense
account) it was back to the Main Tent for the forty-three
design show of Long Island born Charles Nolan. It
was sweet to see his brother, the priest, at the
check-in desk and also inside the tent, obviously
very proud and adding a rarely seen spiritual touch
to Fashion Week. In Roman collar, the good Father
Nolan was probably the only one immune from a style
critique by the fashionistas.
Feeling a bit fluish (thank God--or Father Nolan--we
had been promoted from standing room to seats),
I decided to go home and rest up for the final three
days of Fashion Week. Yes, tonight was the Heatherette
show (and after party), but I didn't have a ticket
and I knew it would be mobbed with hundreds of cool
kids and drag queens and the chances of this old
"hepcat" getting in were slim to none.
So, somewhat reluctantly, I went home to my new
recliner and "American Idol."
February 8th, Wednesday,
Day Six: A mix-up by the Peter Som PR folks
had me designated as a photographer with a spot
reserved on the runway riser. While I do snap pics
of models, I am not a fashion photographer and,
armed only with my Nikon Coolpix 5.6, I would have
been eaten alive by the one hundred or more real
photographers bearing huge telephoto lenses and
multiple cameras. Phallic thought it all might be
(the riser was mainly a male bastion with two notable
exceptions), these long-lensed pros were not about
to tolerate little old me and my tiny digicam.
A midnight e-mail reply from a Som flack stated
there was "nothing that can be done at this
late date." Nevertheless, I arrived at 10:30
am, a half-hour beyond the official starting time,
just as the check-in desk was closing. Waving my
original invitation, I breezed by security and stood
near (but not among) the photographers at the top
of the runway. The Peter Som show turned out to
be one of my best Fashion Week experiences: in and
out of a show in 15 minutes with some of my best
photos! (Usually it's like this for show invitees:
a one hour wait to be seated, fifteen minute show,
and fifteen minutes to get out of the venue.) Oh,
and his designs were spectacular!

Swee Kee Tan from Malaysia
at the We Entertainment booth
Feeling victorious,
it was off to the We Entertainment booth to score
a red tote bag for my special friend; much nicer
than the tacky gold ones of last September.
Rejected by the Michael Kors flacks, it was soon
time for the gorgeous designs of Carmen Marc Valvo.
I was very lucky to be seated next to the lovely
Renee White of the Amsterdam News. Before the show
she regaled me with tales of Hillary Clinton and
the late Coretta Scott King.
The forty-one design
Valvo show was inspired by the oil paintings of
Helmut Ditch and "looked to the breathtaking
beauty of the Arctic and its sweeping panorama."
The actress Illeana Douglas was one of the very
impressed spectators.
Following standing room visits to the Richard Chai
and Carlos Miele shows, it was time to beg the Anna
Sui publicists allow me in to her Main Tent show.
One of the last people in before they closed the
doors, I needed to stand on tiptoes and weave from
side to side just to see the top of the runway.
Was that first model Naomi Campbell in a "navy
dotted plaid on metallic stripe chiffon blouse with
navy pin tuck wool stripe pleated shorts"?
Yes it was!
Finally, some people blocking my view moved a bit
and I could see the full length of the runway. One
gorgeous outfit after another appeared and the models
vamped for the cameras until the last one appeared.
Yes, it was Naomi once again, this time wearing
a sexy "black all over mesh flowers baby doll
dress." She soon joined Anna Sui for the traditional
designer bow moment as the crowd went nuts for the
supermodel and super designer.
February 9, Thursday, Day
Seven: I slept-in this morning, not arriving
at the tents until 4 pm. After candy/mimosa stops
at the Tents, I crossed the street to the Bryant
Park Hotel for the Daily Front Row reception on
the 24th floor. The three-room suite was mobbed,
but I managed to reach the tiny open bar and even
eat some flatbread and spicy peas (?) while chatting
with Elizabeth Wellington, the fashion editor of
the Philadelphia Inquirer.
It was then time to check-in for the Joanna Mastroianni
show in the Atelier tent. Despite having an invitation,
I was given a standing room card (yes it happened
again), but upon arriving in the tent I sat in the
first available second row seat I could find. I
enjoyed the show but our "gift bag" consisted
of a pencil, energy bar and a party invite ("donation
suggested.")
It was time once again to venture south to the friendlier
confines of the Altman Building for the Kelly Cutrone
produced Zaldy show. Arriving one hour early, I
killed time chatting with Robert the friendly security
guy (ex-NYPD). It was very amusing listening to
all the reasons given by nearly every arriving guest
as to why they needed to be inside, out of the cold,
and preferably "backstage. Finally my friend
Antonia the Stylist arrived and we entered the seating
area where a seat was found for me by a People's
Revolution staffer. Once again I gallantly gave
it up to a friend, only this time there was no reward
of a front row promotion, as those seats were taken
up by the likes of Hilary Duff and Jay, last season's
Project Runway winner.
 |
 |
Illeana
Douglas |
Charlie
Rose |
The mini-after party was crowded, including Illeana
Douglas (she gets around), but after a drink Antonia
and I were off uptown to a non-Fashion Week party
for the new revival of Pajama Game and a promised
meeting with star Harry Connick Jr.
February 10, Friday, Day
Eight (The Last Day): This was the morning
of the Project Runway show, which I had very much
hoped to attend. But, despite a last ditch e-mail
and fax to the publicist, this time invoking the
name of co-star Tim Gunn, I had failed to obtain
a ticket. And there was no way I was leaving home
at 7 am for a 9 am show when I had already been
rejected by the Bravo publicist at least three times.
I'm masochistic but not crazy!
So, I strolled around the lobby on this final day,
collecting my final batch of Jolly Ranchers and
Peppermint Patties (ubiquitous official candy of
Fashion Week) and Red Dress pins, feeling extremely
melancholy. My friend Antonia arrived and asked
what was wrong. "I don't want it to end,"
I said, as she told me to "shut up" and
to have another mimosa.
If I only knew what awaited me I would not have
been so sad. The final two shows (both Kelly produced)
were the most fun-filled shows of the entire week.
First up, in the Main Tent, was Manuel Cuevas, a
73-year old Nashville-based designer who specializes
in denim, leather and lots of rhinestones. Manuel's
credits read like a history of country and pop music
of the last half-century.
From 1956-74 Manuel was the lead designer for Nudie's
Rodeo Tailor, where his clients included Dolly Parton,
Dale Evans, Roy Rogers, Gene Autry, John Wayne and
Johnny Cash (for whom Manuel provided his first
six black suits).
In 1967, Manuel designed the Beatle's uniforms for
the Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Heart's Club album cover
and in 1968 designed the famous "TV comeback"
outfit for Elvis Presley: tight black leather pants
and fitted matching leather jacket. In the mid-70s
he opened a North Hollywood store and Ronald Reagan
became a lifelong customer of Manuel. He has also
designed for former President George H.W. Bush.
Manuel has also designed for Robert Redford ("Electric
Horseman") and for John Travolta ("Urban
Cowboy"). Other stars who wear Manuel designs
include Bob Dylan, Madonna, Cher, Sharon Stone,
Winona Ryder, Dolly Parton, Lorrie Morgan and Emmy
Lou Harris.
The runway show, with front rows filled with Manuel
devotees wearing his designs and 10-gallon hats,
lived up to the Manuel legend. Model after model
sashayed down the runway in a collection of forty-two
sexy outfits including coats, jackets, blazers,
jeans, bustiers, shirts, suits, skirts and dresses
in materials ranging from leather and denim to python
and crocodile. But the piece de resistance was four
designs from his Fifty State collection: beautiful
leather jackets representing New York, Tennessee,
California and Texas, all embroidered with symbols
of the respective state.
Manuel and his son (and heir) Manuel Jr. received
a well-deserved standing ovation from the full-house
following an unforgettable first New York runway
show. I felt honored to be there.
Following a detour to Industria on Jane Street to
get a photo of Jennifer Lopez and Mark Anthony,
it was back to the Altman Building for the always
wild Jeremy Scott show. The Kansas-born, Los Angeles-based
Scott never disappoints and his Fall 2006 line,
including candy stripe pants, puffy minis, giant
polka dot kimonos, ice-cream coned tops and a Jeremy
"candy bar" outfit, was greeted with enthusiasm
and smiles by the full house of admirers and customers,
including Icelandic songbird Bjork. After experiencing
my second Scott show all I can say is: When you've
got Jeremy, who needs Heatherette?

Manuel Cuevas with Two New
Friends:
Brenda A. Go-Go (left) & Brandy Wine (right)
Well the shows were
over until September, but this old fool still had
parties to attend and it was off to Del Frisco's
Double Eagle Steakhouse in midtown, where I introduced
Manuel to a couple of lovely drag queens, and where
I met Angelo the tailor from Dallas and the beautiful
Janey from Tennessee. It was then off to the Jeremy
Scott party at Marquee, with Janey and drag queens
in tow. Intercepted by Antonia the Stylist and Anthony
of Kenneth Cole, we entered the crowded club and
soon found ourselves on the second floor (alas,
not the VIP room) where we "boogied down"
till dawn (actually 2 am) before I headed home for
Bayside.
It was an amazing final day to a great week and,
as I said back in September, I can't wait until
Bryant Park is taken over once again by Fashion
Week in just seven short months.
|