The Sleaze of Atlantic City
Written and Photographed by Melinda Maclean
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I wanted to get away. From the
city. From my cramped apartment. From the numbing
routine of trying to survive. Where can you go when
your wallets is almost empty but your wandering
heart is crying out to move beyond the New York
City skyline... Atlantic City here I come.
On March 11th, my friend and I took the 10am bus
from Gate 80 at the Port Authority Bus Terminal
to the Borgata Casino and Hotel in Atlantic City.
Depending on what casino you go to, the trip can
cost around $20 (roundtrip with cash back). It's
a great one-day getaway. The other passengers were
mostly older single women and a few couples.
A smartly-dressed woman who looked like a young
grandmother sat in the seat adjacent to ours. She
had a peaceful, almost beatific smile on her face
as we pulled out of the dark passage of the terminal
into the hazy sunshine of NYC. As we got deeper
into Jersey, she started talking to herself. After
a few minutes, she stood up slowly and started up
the aisle to the front of the bus. Here we go, I
thought. She's going to stop the bus and demand
to get off and we will all have to spend the day
in a field next to an electrical plant. She sat
and talked with the bus driver for a few minutes
and then walked back to her seat. I asked her what
happened and she said that she could see in the
mirror that the bus driver was falling asleep. So
she decided to not take her eyes off of his for
the next two and half hours to make sure we didn't
end up crashing. I was thankful. And the slot machines
were waiting.

Atlantic City is a
place of extremes. There is the sunlit boardwalk
filled with families and couples walking lazily,
wearing over-sized Atlantic City sweatshirts with
poker card emblems. The view of the ocean makes
you draw a deeper breath to fill your NYC lungs
with the clean air. The boardwalk offers up many
store fronts, somewhat reminiscent of Coney Island:
salt water taffy stores, palm and tarot card readers,
antique stores, shops filled with 99 cent sunglasses
and 5$ Atlantic City T-shirts. Part of the boardwalk
resembles a smaller Vegas, with showy thematic facades
like the Old West. In the distance you can trace
the outline of a closed down amusement park which
faces the ocean.

Sands Casino
Once you enter the
casinos you are lucky to find your way out. If you
make your way past the slot machines, row upon row
of silver topped old ladies, cigarette in one hand,
a big plastic cup of quarters in their lap, pushing
the bet button and watching the lemon wedges, cherries,
and joker figures come up in three partitions. Win
or lose the gambler's expressions seemed the same
- stoic and determined. The constant ringing of
the slot machines puts you into a trance which can
only be broken by stepping outside. My friend and
I went to several casinos and my favorite part was
using the bathroom. The Taj Mahal, the Borgata,
Caesars...the bathrooms are majestic, imperial palaces...right
out of a fairy tale. Each stall is like a NYC studio
apartment. Golden toilet paper holders. Faux marble
sinks. Not one speck of dust or dirt. Luxurious
white towels. And you can smoke while you regroup,
check your pockets for any extra money, and get
ready to go and face the slots again.


If you walk along
Pacific Avenue (one street away from the boardwalk).
The street is lined with dozens of liquor stores
and pawn shops displaying the same ominous sign
CASH FOR GOLD. There is an endless parade of down
and out souls, hanging on corners, looking for money
in the gutter dropped by passing tourists. In one
vacant lot several men had gathered to sit near
a garbage bin fire (right out of the Depression)
and other drunken figures clothed in thick layers
of jackets and hooded sweatshirts patrolled the
street looking for easy marks.


The Atlantic City jitney is the easiest way to get
around if you don't have a car. The jitney is little
bit bigger then a large van, seating less then twenty.
One pulled up to us as we stood on Pacific Ave.
The driver, long-haired with sunglasses, swung the
doors open before coming to a stop. Classic rock
blaring from the radio. My friend and I got on and
we were speeding away to get to the Borgata to see
the Pogues play a show.


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