Bruno Jamais An Upper East Side treat Written by Frank J, Avella

The Upper East Side is not exactly where you’d expect to find a swanky, trendy and thoroughly intoxicating restaurant like Bruno Jamais. But if delicious food and fabulous ambiance are what you are looking for, make the trek to 24 East 81st Street. You will not go away disappointed. Although you may leave so sated you’ll need a good walk to Chelsea to work off the meal and the buzz...but you’ll be smiling all the way!

And an added boon is that, unlike many of the hot yummy haunts in Manhattan, Bruno’s kitchen stays open until the wee hours, so night owls like me can gorge and drink until dawn...well almost dawn!

One enters Bruno Jamais via a walk-thru wine cellar (there’s another downstairs), you are led through these funky sliding doors into Bruno-proper where the fun begins.

On any given night one can find quite the cross section of patrons having a grand gluttonous time of it enjoying some of the best dishes Manhattan has to offer. And as midnight approaches one can experience enticing DJ music as well as eclectic live bands.

All of the above is thanks to the man himself: Bruno Jamais, the charming forty-five-year old Parisian born entrepreneur and restauranteur. Jamais believes that one of the key qualities in having a successful restaurant is respecting his patrons and winning their respect as well. He seems to have succeeded beyond his wildest dreams since his namesake eats is now a major hot spot with celebs like Keanu Reeves, Sex and the City’s Kim Cattrall, Spike Lee and even former President Bill Clinton (wouldn’t we all like to meet Bill after a satisfying meal and beg him to run for President again--well, I would!) But the elite mix nicely with the every-other-NYCer like you and me at BJ.

The cuisine is decidedly French but lately the menu has an Asian influence. This is thanks to Bruno’s maverick chef, John Keller, a master of the culinary arts. This handsome twenty-nine-year old started out as a dishwasher in Utah and has quickly worked his way up to holding one of the best chef positions in the greatest city in the world (we who live here are proudly biased!)

Bruno Jamais

Keller preps magnificent meals for Jamais and in turn gets “creative freedom.” He changes the menu periodically, “whenever it inspires him.” The night I visited he was galvanized by exotic mushrooms he had purchased and made a special entree of. I decided on the duck special since I am an aficionado of the cooked quack mammal...but I am getting ahead of myself...

Master Chef John Keller

I was initially intrigued by the much ballyhooed Lobster Brulee entree. Would it be sweet? Seafoody? I was also a bit frightened because of two evil allergies I suffer from--onion and garlic (yes, I’m Italian, yes, it sucks, no there’s nothing I can do about it, yes, I get defensive about it!) Master chef John Keller assured me he would have no trouble making it sans the killer ingredients. I was shocked and delighted as most chefs would have pompously balked at the suggestion of altering their creations (trust me, I’ve been there!) But Keller showed no arrogance, just confidence and pride and a desire to please.

And, yikes, was I pleased! The Lobster Brulee proved absolutely delectable. Serious perfection. I would return to BJ simply for a spoonful. (and a few thousand of the Fried Gnocchi...)

Now, my duck entree arrived looking way too good to devour. Presentation is flawless at Bruno Jamais and the service is impeccable whether it’s the dapper Maitre’di, the cordial hostess or the attentive wait staff.

But back to my duck! Possibly the best duck entree I have ever tasted--rare with amazing fruit sauces. It melted in my mouth. I truly cannot remember the last time that happened.

Adding a nice cup of coffee and Crème Brulee to my already overstuffed but happy system, I was pretty blown away by the sweet and genuine nature of the staff, and other than the fact that they need desperately to serve red wine that ISN’T merlot (anyone see Sideways?), my visit was a rousing success. I did indeed walk to Chelsea, by the way...with a large idiotic smile on my face...

Bruno Jamais has created a sexy and enticing South of France environment with the finest food around. Take a walk on the Upper East Wild Side and feast for yourself!