Gen
Art presents “The New Garde”
The Waterfront (222 12th Avenue)
February 2nd, 2007
Written by Bob Bland
Photographed by Evens Lamour
(Opposite photo Geren Ford)
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Since 2003, selection
by Gen Art for their “Fresh Faces” runway
show has been any aspiring fashion designer’s
dream. Previous participants in the Fashion Week
presentation, which is known as a career launcher,
include Zac Posen, Cloak and Sari Gueron. Designers
are chosen based on their established ability to
maintain a successful independent fashion label,
while retaining freshness and individuality. This
season was an unfortunate departure away from the
runway to an installation format, an innovation
that is increasingly popular, but predictably difficult
to pull off. Gen Art, an organization devoted to
showcasing emerging artists, musicians, performers
and fashion designers, presented a series of three
“live-model vignettes” across the length
of an entire block. Over the course of two hours,
models for each line rotated into 20 different looks,
while guests had the opportunity to meander between
the three featured designers.
Form
Want to get in on a little industry secret? There
is a sure-fire way to succeed in NYC fashion, and
Jerry Tam, founder of New York-based design collective
Form, has read the book on it. Here’s the
syllabus:
1) Go to Parsons (Extra Credit: Take specialty classes
at FIT simultaneously)
2) Intern/work with one established luxury designer
and one hot up-and-coming name (Example: Perry Ellis
and Zac Posen)
3) Seek the advice of top merchandisers (Bergdorf’s,
Neiman Marcus, Saks, Barney’s)or editors (Vogue,
WWD, Elle)
4) Use your connections to create a highly conceptual,
tightly edited line of women’s wear
As the name of the line suggests, architectural
elements and seaming played a defining role in Form’s
Fall/Winter 2007 collection. Key colors were essential
New York favorites black, grey and white, along
with a deep plum hue. Tam’s structural concept
for fall included neoprene shielding and layered
armor details that “…allow the wearer
to withstand the battles of their environment”.
While the outfits were successfully executed and
undoubtedly chic, no amount of protection could
save the models from Tam’s glaringly lit display
and painfully high acetate heels.
For more information on Form,
go to www.formnewyork.com.
Geren
Ford
L.A.-based line Geren Ford may have made its NYC
debut at “The New Garde,” but designer
Geren Lockhart is no stranger to Gen Art or to New
York. Lockhart is a California native who trained
in ready-to-wear at Parsons, and whose line first
showed at Gen Art’s 2005 “Fresh Faces”
show in L.A. Her vignette was the first to greet
viewers at the entrance of The Waterfront, and the
most successful as a live-action installation. With
the help of music video director Oliver Gondry,
she incorporated interior design, video and music.
Where the other two designers chose static presentation,
her models acted out scenes, each being presented
in a separate “room”. Whether the girls
were dancing, pillow fighting or watching TV, Lockhart’s
styles had pop attitude and a young sensibility
that will prove to be very popular with the Urban
Outfitter’s set.
For more information on Geren
Ford, go to www.gerenford.com.
Chrishabana
Philippines native Chris Habana first showed his
accessory line at the 2004 Gen Art “Fresh
Faces” show, but at “The New Garde”,
he expanded his Brooklyn-based collection to include
women’s wear, jewelry and textile prints.
Though the self-described “crafthlete”
shows promise with colorful hand-illustrated fabric
designs and playful jewelry, his Fall 2007 collection
was underdeveloped compared to those of his peers.
In his self-written designer bio, Habana admits
that “…going to college for fashion...wasn’t
[his] thing at all…” and that he “…didn’t
necessarily know the proper way to construct garments”.
Chrishabana seems light-hearted and irreverent with
attitude to spare, but I question the apparel collection’s
inclusion in such a prestigious fashion presentation.
For more on Chrishabana, go to
www.chrishabana.com.
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