Wooster
Projects’ “Faces & Fashion"
418 West 15th St
Meat Packing District Design Weekend
The Exhibition is Over
Written by Julia Sirmons
Photographed by Amy Davidson
(Opposite Sigmund Freud by Andy Warhol)
|
 |
“I know he’s
a genius and everything, but if I see one more soup
can or pink-and-yellow Marilyn Monroe, I’m
going to ram my head against a two-by four.”
Julia Sirmons
Even if, like myself, you’re
a big fan of pop art, with its fun, colorful aesthetic
and its playful manipulation of mass culture, that
thought might have crossed your mind once or twice.
Perhaps while walking past the MoMA store.
To deny Andy Warhol’s talent
and influence on contemporary art and culture would
be both pointless and ignorant, but he’s become
such an universally revered artist and his work
(or copies and homages thereof) are just so omnipresent
that it’s hard not to get a little underwhelmed
from time to time.
For all of us suffering from Warhol
ennui, Wooster Projects offered the perfect antidote
with its “Faces & Fashion” expedition,
which was part of the Meatpacking District’s
Design Week -- which, in a typical example of New
York exaggeration, was actually more of a Design
Weekend -- running from May 18th to May 20th.
“Faces & Fashion”
was an exposition comprised almost entirely of Warhol
and Warhol-inspired pieces. It proved an excellent
reaffirmation of the genius of one of the 20th centuries
most well-known artists, as well an exciting and
inspiring tutorial on Warhol’s vast scope
of artistic techniques and interests. But most of
all, it was a potent, giddy reminder of just how
much fun Warhol’s work can be.
Of course there were
a few expected items, including two separate paper
screenprints of Jackie O. There was also a lithograph
with watercolor entitled “Shoe and Leg,”
a variation of which can be found in the Andy Warhol
“Taming of the Shoe” calendar on sale
at the gift shop of every major art museum across
America. (Full disclosure: I only know this because
I own this calendar and absolutely adore it.) However,
the rest of the works of on display showed a delightful
combination of versatility and vitality.
 |
 |
| Andy in Drag |
Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis |
Immediately to the left of the
door of the exposition space, located at 418 W.
14th St., was a witty, striking and thought-provoking
piece by Christopher Makos entitled “Andy
in Drag.” “Drag” is a collage
of various portraits of Warhol using with wigs and
makeup (and occasionally, minimal costuming) to
explore his feminine side,. The photos themselves
are incredibly fun (my favorite was one of Andy
in a button-down shirt and tie, sporting a wavy
golden wig, arched eyebrows, and sardonic expression
evoking the divine Marlene Dietrich). But other
photos seem to evoke gaudier, tackier versions of
Marilyn’s bombshell waves and Jackie’s
dark bouffant. These subtle but eerie resemblances
hint at the depth of Andy’s artistic fetishes
and his simultaneous ability to self-effacingly
mock them. The portraits are both a different expression
of his philosophies on the cult of modern celebrity
and a genuine desire for self-exploration. The stark
black-and white-shots convey a naked yet ambiguous
emotion in Warhol’s eyes. It’s a unique
experience, seeing the master of artifice struggling
with revealing or concealing genuine feelings. It’s
an absolute affirmation that there was far more
to Andy – both the man and the artist –
than we may ever know.
Next were a series of works unlike
anything I’d seen in the Warhol œuvre.
Made using a different technique then his famous
Jackie and Marilyn screenprints (which were done
on paper), these screenprints were made on lenox
board, and displayed a unique aesthetic, reminiscent
of neon light signs typically found in the windows
of strip clubs and dive bars. In these pieces, Warhol
captures the flashiness and kinetic energy of those
signs but elevates them into something both over-the-top
and refined, echoing classical lines and forms.
Particularly arresting is “Satyric Festival”
a dynamic and striking double print of a disco dancer
shaking her groove thing, colored in tones of blue,
green and purple with contrasting white-green lines
that really pop with the color contrast. “Festival”
is so kinetic and full of Dionysian energy that
it practically bursts from the screen, making the
viewer yearn for some “Bad Girls” on
the turntable and a chance to take a spin on the
floor.
Two more traditional Warhol portraits
were also done on lenox board, one of Hallie May
Frowic, the other of Sigmund Freud. The multi-colored
quadrants and abstract figures that Warhol adds
to the screenprinted photograph of the father of
psychology is an apt artistic expression of Freud’s
theories of the fragmented and unknowable elements
of the human psyche. Once can easily imagine good
old Sigmund standing ponderously before his portrait,
contemplating whether sometimes a purple rectangle
is just a purple rectangle.

The next series of lenox board
screenprints again offers something completely different.
They are simple, charming sketches of assortments
of women’s makeup and accessories and men’s
clothing, accented with tiny additions of color.
Strangely sweet and enigmatic, they encourage a
spectator to speculate about where these objects
came from and wonder what their potential owners
might be like.
Along the Jackie wall, Wooster
Projects displayed more traditional Warhol works,
mainly screenprinted photographs embellished with
splashy applications of bright, beautiful colors.
Fortunately, the examples on display were really
fine. Next to “Jackie II” was the fabulous
“Drag Queen,” which depicts a fro-ed
out sister leaning in towards the camera, cigarette
in hand, her mouth erupting into sly, jovial laughter.
Warhol accents the bold personality of this fabulous
diva by accenting the print with perfectly chosen
splashes of purple and brown. Graphic, bold and
striking, and obviously full of personality, she
makes even two Jackies look kind of blah in comparison.
While one can argue that its easy
to bring out the personality of a drag queen; the
task becomes a little more difficult when one chooses
a formal portrait of a monarch as the starting point
for the artistic endeavor. But Warhol achieves this
to perfection with “Queen Margrethe.”
Using a very staid profile shot that looks like
it belongs on a Danish postage stamp, Warhol, with
his trademark use of vibrant color, makes Queen
Margrethe still seem cool, self-assured and regal
(think Cate Blanchett at the end of Elizabeth, only
groovier). At the same time, his subtler use of
color on her face emphasizes the acuteness of her
eyes and the contours of her lips and profile that
hints at a very pensive, ambiguously empathetic,
and eminently human quality. The focus on her thoughtful,
inquisitive face, coupled with the glittery accents
Warhol adds to her crown, suggest, that, while they
might not end up the best of friends, she and the
“Drag Queen” two doors down could share
a cocktail and some friendly conversation.
Though he’s
known for his arch take on modern advertising and
celebrity, “Faces & Fashion” is
a proud testament to Andy’s other great artistic
talent – his ability to make still images
come to life and reveal the intense extremities
and the unexpected quirks of famous and not-so famous
personalities. Wooster Projects’ exhibit is
an important and potent reminder of these qualities
in Warhol’s work. He wasn’t just interested
in manipulating the cold commercialization of the
modern media; he also wanted to transform that media
into something personal, lively and interactive,
something that allowed to open the viewer’s
eyes to new and unusual possibilities. This fresh,
well-curated and highly enjoyable exhibit brought
the joyful and playful elements of Warhol’s
work deservedly back into the public eye. It’s
made the art world more inspiring, and more fun,
for all of us.
|